Trend Tracking: Navajo Textiles

By Jen Smith
September 22, 2010

Navajo Weaver Navajo textiles have once again captured the global imagination. These magical—almost spiritual—hand-woven cloths marked by geometric designs, hazy lines, and dusty colors mixed with vibrant desert hues are soft under the feet, gorgeous on the wall and durable enough to last generations. Throughout the years, Navajo rugs and blankets—made by the Navajo women in the American Southwest since the 1600s as not only a source of livelihood but also an expression of traditional culture and beauty—have inspired tastemakers of every genre. Designers Ray and Charles Eames; artists Donald Judd, Mark Rothko, and Jackson Pollock; and industrial designer Russel Wright were greatly influenced by the Navajo textiles. (Ray and Charles Eames even had a Navajo rug in their Pacific Palisades home.)

Navajo Weaver (Photo by MPI/Getty Images)

These Native American heritage weavings continue to make a major impact in the style world. "I have Navajo rugs in every room of the house, including bathrooms and closets, and I use them. I also have an early classic blanket on my wall on a mannequin so I can see it how it was originally worn by the people who made them," says Dr. Mark Sublette, owner of the renowned The Medicine Man galleries in Santa Fe and Tucson, who specializes in antique Native American Indian art and boasts a large inventory of Navajo rugs and blankets.

Sublette became obsessed with Native American art when he was a boy growing up in a small New Mexico town and could purchase directly from the artists. This early curiosity evolved into his life’s work: Over a decade ago, he walked away from a successful medical practice to open his first gallery in Tucson, which has since expanded from 2,000 square feet to more than 12,000 square feet today.

"The most interesting way I have seen Navajo rugs displayed is hanging from the roof; the rugs acted like the ceiling. I also design furniture and pillows using old Navajo rugs, which have become too damaged to use as rugs anymore," says Sublette.

The rugs can also used to upholster headboards, and small rugs can be sewn end-to-end in a custom "patchwork" style.

Scott Hill, owner of recently-opened Village Hall boutique in Manhattan and the former Director of Design and Creative Resourcing for Ralph Lauren is a huge fan of Navajo rugs in a modern home: "My feeling is that Navajo rugs are almost the perfect textile accent to feature in a contemporary glass/concrete/steel home... I would use a Navajo rug in several ways... a wall piece, draped over a sofa or upstairs stair rail as an ambient decorative element... or even folded or rolled and tucked under a table or desk or on a chair near a stack of firewood... or even many rugs folded and stacked on one another.. A big one on a black grand piano with a huge antler candelabra would be killer.The colors of these rugs work very well with birch bark, birch logs, birch canoes, etc... I sort of feel that one is not enough, and that the more you mix up the variety, the better the environment feels. I also feel like the more detailed rug images would make incredible Christmas cards."

The trend is certainly being reflected in the eBay marketplace: In the last 15 days, listings of items with the term "Navajo rug" on eBay in the have increased 9 percent; the average price of an item has increased 43 percent; and total sales have increased 27 percent compared to a 15 day period approximately one year ago. Today there are approximately 850 listings for "Navajo rug" on eBay, primarily on the Collectibles category.

The Navajo influence, whether it be a striking use of neutrals and saturated desert palettes, geometric shapes and tribal motifs continues to be apparent on the runway. “If last week’s Fashion Week in NYC is any indication, Navajo designs continue to influence fashion [as well as] interior design, and architecture. I saw at least half a dozen examples on the runway!" says Sublette. Ralph Lauren, Anna Sui, Phillip Lim, Vena Cava, Jenni Kayne and Rag & Bone all gave a nod to Native American design with their recent collections.

The Inside Source approached Sublette to review some of eBay’s offerings and give us practical tips on shopping for Navajo textiles.

Dr. Sublette's TIPS for scoring an authentic Navajo textile online:

1. When purchasing a textile online, make sure there are multiple images, especially of both sides, the corners and the ends. Most problems are usually there.

2. Look for a good description, including the condition of the textile.

3. A big red flag is no return policy.

4. Beware of these words and phrases if you want an authentic piece: "Navajo style," "Navajo-inspired." Otherwise, you may end up with a reproduction. The seller should stand behind his/her authentification.

5. Look carefully for stains. If the image is not clear, request more photos and ask questions.

6. If the textile has fringe on both sides, it is usually a Mexican reproduction.

Navajo Textiles on eBay
with Dr. Mark Sublette

Old Navajo Indian Rug Weaving

(buy it now price, $125)

"If you look closely, you can see the heavier weave of this piece. No border is another indicator that this is a 'transitional' piece, when weavers began to transition from making blankets to making rugs."
Vintage Native American Indian Navajo Rug Runner

(buy it now price, $725)

"A classic saddle blanket—actually this is two weavings stitched together," says Sublette. Simple graphic stripes make this a perfect rug to layer with other styles of rugs such as kilims, Persian, Bolivian, Oriental—an interiors trend that highlights the blending of world culture.
Old Navajo Rug Ganado/Classic Revival

(buy it now price, $975)

"Ganado textiles are typically red. Lorenzo Hubbard, the proprietor of the Hubble Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona, commissioned weavers to accommodate tourist demand. He loved the color red, so he encouraged them to use it."
Vintage Genuine Navajo Hand-Woven Two Grey Hill Rug

(buy it now price, $298)

"Great price for a Two Grey Hills regional rug!" exclaims Sublette of the work of a rug weaver located in Western New Mexico. We love the architectural design and the unusual palette.
Old Native American Navajo Rug Teec Nos Pos

(buy it now price, $800)

"This is definitely an original," says Sublette, "although when I’m buying a rug online, I like to see both sides and get super specific dimensions, so I would ask the seller for more images. The weavings from Teec Nos Pos are known to be inspired by Oriental designs, which the Navajos then incorporated with their own aesthetics and belief systems to create these weavings. See the four diamond patterns? Those probably represent the Four Sacred Mountains of Navajo creation mythology."
Vintage Navajo Pictorial Rug

(buy it now price, $599)

This rug would look charming in a child’s room. "It’s basically a sand painting," explains Dr. Sublette. "The figures and symbols depict important things to the Navajo.”
Navajo Indian Rug Raised Outline Weaving

(buy it now price, $599.99)

“Sometimes it’s hard to appreciate the workmanship from a two-dimensional image,” says Sublette. “The weaving is a bit off-kilter, but the design is nice and the raised outline adds a wonderful texture.”
Authentic Navajo Rug: Triangle Rows Design

(buy it now price, $450)

Sublette says: "I collect these kinds of rugs. They have a cool, simplistic design—very Donald Judd-inspired. This one is a regional rug—saddle blanket size—and a great price."
Old Germantown 3rd Phase Chiefs Blanket Rug

(buy it now price, $11,800)

Score! “The best rug on eBay right now is this rug. Classic with a nine diamond pattern.” Chiefs Blankets are the most recognizable, collectible and highest priced Navajo rugs.
Old Native American Germantown Square Rug

(buy it now price, $275)

“Germantown rugs were basically tourist items—small enough to pack in a suitcase. Woven from commercial grade wool, they are usually recognizable by their vibrant colors.”