Paris Travelogue: The Brocantes, Part I

By Amy Flurry
August 4, 2010

Paris brocantes, outdoor markets selling second-hand goods, are a far cry from the weekend markets of my Georgia youth, where small reptiles and bunnies could be purchased alongside tables of socks, rusty garden tools and teakettles. Some brocantes are run by associations with professional exhibitors selling antiques and period objects, while others resemble a large neighborhood tag sale with collectors and amateurs offering delightful curios and household items. Naturally, these citywide street fairs are a great place to pick up an interesting gift or souvenir.

Among the larger, more well-known markets—listed in all of the city guides—is the Puces de Saint-Ouen along the Avenue Porte de Clignancourt, the outskirts of Northeastern Paris, but easily accessible by Métro. You’ll have to brave the pushy street vendors (among them many unlicensed merchants), selling everything from Marlboros to soccer jerseys and other bric-a-brac, before hitting the market proper, a maze of stalls, many permanent, organized into sections according to goods.

Supposedly the largest outdoor market in the world, the Clignancourt has a vibe that is really more antique store spilling into the street. In my experience, prices were three times those of the smaller marchés aux puces (though it took little more than a raised eyebrow before vendors proposed a substantially lower price).

I spent a cool weekend here and managed to cover only half of the grounds, armed with my map of the stalls. And while the period furniture, tapestries and lighting may be in better condition than what you might pick up at the smaller street sales, the whole experience left me feeling that shopping the Clignancourt was best left to professionals (who also have access to containers for their haul).

It did get me thinking, however, that I might have better luck—and a more comfortable weekend—shopping eBay from my own home.

Here's a look at what I found:

Roll over items for details

Crucianelli Accordian 1

Left to right: Crucianelli accordian from the Clignancourt market, 350 Euro; Crucianelli Accordian

(buy it now price, $450)

Porceleine Service

Left to right: Set of dishes and cooking pots from Clignancourt, in a very recognizable and beloved pattern from the thirties, opaque porcelaine, Badon Viller, 170 Euro for the entire group; Porceleine Service

(buy it now price, 250 Euro)

Service Soupe a L’ognion

Left to right: Ceramic pots for onion soup from the Clignancourt market, 5 Euro each; Service Soupe a L’ognion

(buy it now price, 20 Euro)

Antique Wire Victorian Birdcage 1

Left to right: Bird cage with ceramic bird inside and door open from the Clignancourt market, 140 Euro; Antique Wire Victorian Birdcage

(buy it now price, $390)

Classic Louis XV Style Crystal Chandelier 1920s

Left to right: Crystal Chandelier, perfect condition, from the Clignancourt market, 450 Euro; Classic Louis XV Style Crystal Chandelier 1920s

(buy it now, 230 Euro)

Industral Machine Age Drafting Chair

Left to right: Red Cross Metal Chair from the Clignancourt market; Industral Machine Age Drafting Chair

(starting bid, $149)

Crystal Decorative Vintage Bottle Stops

Left to right: Blue glass decanter stoppers at the Clignancourt market, 1 for 6 euro and 2 for 10 euro; Crystal Decorative Vintage Bottle Stops

(starting bid, $0.99)

Vintage Formica Table and Chairs

Left to right: Retro table and chairs from the Clignancourt market; Vintage Formica Table and Chairs

(from $99.99)

Jean Paul Gaultier Corseted Champagne Ice Bucket

Left to right: Jean Paul Gaultier corset champagne bottle at the Clignancourt market, 125 Euro; Jean Paul Gaultier Corseted Champagne Ice bucket

(winning bid, $56.76)

Buste De Femme

Left to right: Bust, Vernaison 250 Euro; Buste De Femme

(buy it now price, 2490 Euro)

Antique Farm Table/late 1800s

From left to right: Antique textile table from the Clignancourt; Antique Farm Table/late 1800s

(buy it now price, $1,210)

Buste De Tete De La Cheval (Horse Bust)

Left to right: Iron bust of horse (fer forge) 100 years old, from the Clignancourt market, 600 euro; Buste De Tete De La Cheval (Horse Bust)

(buy it now price, 90 Euro)

Set of 6 Louis XV Cane Back Dining Chairs

Left to right: Set of 4 cane back Louis XV chairs at the Clignancourt market, 500 Euro; Set of 6 Louis XV Cane Back Dining Chairs

(starting bid, $2,700)

** Images provided by the author. **

Amy Flurry is a freelance writer and style editor whose work has been featured in Lucky, Refinery 29, InStyle, Conde Nast Traveler, O @ Home, Four Seasons magazine, House Beautiful, Country Living, and The Atlantan.

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