Shopping with. . . Odin Co-Owner Eddy Chai

By Chris Frey
March 15, 2010

When, according to a survey conducted by (now-folded) "Bible of menswear" trade publication DNR, your store rests comfortably behind retail behemoths Barneys and Fred Segal as the third most influential men’s store in America, you know you’re onto something. Indeed, Eddy Chai and Paul Birardi, co-owners of men's lifestyle boutique Odin, are onto something big. Their original store, which opened in 2004 in New York's East Village, was such a smashing success that they have since opened a flagship store in SoHo, a Greenwich Village location and an e-shop, as well as women's boutique called Pas De Deux.

We checked in with Chai to get some insight into the magic formula that has allowed Odin to thrive, especially during a time when many other boutique retailers have had to close their doors.

Most importantly, Chai says he trusts his instincts. No matter what trends are surfacing on the runways and regardless of what retail giants are buying, Chai says he and Birardi ask themselves a simple question of every item that they consider for their store: “Would we wear it?” If the answer isn't a resounding yes, the item doesn't make it past the front door. What do make it inside are men's clothes that are fashionable and accessible. Chai, who cites Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Engineered Garments, Maison Margiela and brother Richard Chai, among his favorite designers, has a distinctly downtown New York personal style that mirrors the store’s edit: men’s essentials made modern; a look that is well-tailored, but never fussy—the pieces you want to keep in your closet for years to come.

Details magazine declared that Odin represents “what guys are actually wearing,” whether that be for a weekend camping trip or a business dinner uptown. The store's vast selection provides men with the option to completely reinvent themselves with a one-stop-shop, fill in the gaps of an existing wardrobe, or find those special new pieces that will keep them current without slaving to trends of the moment. That the store environment is completely unpretentious makes it as comfortable for the novice as for the frequent shopper.

Always seeking to keep things fresh, Chai and Birardi offer a constantly rotating stock and frequently engage in designer collaborations. They recently partnered with English cobbler Grenson on an exclusive shoe line and with Duckie Brown on a line called “Edward,” an under-$500 collection of classics fashioned from the remainders of Brown’s luxury fabrics. They also just launched a trio of Odin fragrances, in scents named Nomad, Owari and Century, in partnership with Purpose-Built. The Odin shops, while teeming with apparel, also carry accessories and gifts.

Chai, who holds an MFA and an MA in media theory, worked in interactive design before starting Odin. He describes his design influences as “no holds barred really…mid-century, gothic, Victorian, Eastlake, primitive, Art Nouveau, Hollywood Regency, vintage industrial, Jacobean. Honestly, I think I’ve purchased from every period whether for my home or for the stores.” This sensibility permeates his stores' interiors, which strike a balance between precise order and rustic ease, with lots of personal touches in the mix. "The challenge," says Chai, "is making the mixed styles succinct, but ultimately, it’s the eccentricity that makes it all unique."

We asked design mix-master Chai to peruse eBay and give us a peek inside his world.

1. Denoyer Geppert World Globe (winning bid, $86.00) "I like the sturdiness of the steel base/frame. It would be nice to have it on my desk and imagine where I wish I could be at a given moment."

2. Pair of Karl Springer Lucite Lamps (buy it now price, $1,999) "Lucite is very hit or miss with me, but the subtle oval shape and slim profile [of these lamps are] really elegant. Add some new black shades and they are timeless."

3. Antique Apothecary Wine Cabinet (buy it now price, $14,900) "We’re always looking for unique pieces to showcase merchandise in the Odin stores and that help in creating a particular mood. I’ve always had a fascination with display cases, especially apothecary wall units."

4. Panton Era Glass Chandelier (buy it now price, $500) "While searching for pieces of the store, I inevitably come across a piece I want for myself. The blown glass drops make this such a sculptural piece. I can only imagine how it would illuminate."

5. Hollywood Regency Brass Fighting Cock Sculpture (buy it now price, $85) "I like off objects that can enhance a table or shelf. The fanned wings create an amazing geometric pattern. I'd probably let them get a slight green patina to give them more character."

6. Pair of Jansen Hollywood Regency Stools (buy it now price, $1,650) "Stools and benches are particularly nice when you can find them in pairs."

7. Antique Glass Curio Cabinet (buy it now price, $7,450) "We’re always looking for unique pieces to showcase merchandise in the Odin stores and that help in creating a particular mood. I’ve always had a fascination with display cases. I’ve never come across such a large piece with beautiful brass hardware from the Victorian period."

8. Baughman Rosewood Desk (buy it now price, $3,450.00) "This is a power desk. I don't have the space, money, and power to wield it, but I wouldn't mind giving it a try."

**Images of Eddy Chai and Odin provided by Odin.**

Tags: