Steal the Look: Justine's, An Austin-Based Bistro Straight Out of 1930s Paris

By Chris Frey
November 30, 2009

On what was supposed to be a brief visit to the endearingly eccentric Texas town of Austin from her hometown of San Francisco, Justine Gilcrease met and fell in love with Pierre Pelegrin, a French musician who had lived in Austin since 1984. She never looked back. The couple, now married, moved for a few years to Paris before returning to Austin, where last year, they opened Justine's, a French-bistro-meets-neighborhood-social-club that stays open until 2am.

Though neither Justine nor Pierre is a classically trained chef, both have significant experience in the kitchen: Pierre had worked for many years at Chez Nous, the local French bistro that opened in 1982 and is still thriving. An avid home cook, Justine's penchant for flavor and seasonality in cooking was shaped by The Art of Simple Food, the iconic tome by Alice Waters, another San Francisco native and a champion of farm fresh food. The couple worked together to craft Justine's authentic but simple French menu, which has won rave reviews, particularly for the steak tartare and creme brulee.

In addition to the delicious food, what also has guests talking is the restaurant itself, which quietly resembles an elegant, sexy, 1930's French boudoir, complete with red walls, vintage light fixtures and lingerie dangling precariously from a satin hanger on the women's bathroom wall. Gilcrease says they "absolutely fell in the love with the property" which includes a 1930's bungalow, now restored, that gives Justine's its "speakeasy feel." The tucked away, at-home vibe is precisely the reason Justine's continues to draw crowds in spite of it's off the beaten path location on the edge of east Austin, a neighborhood slowly but consistently on the verge of cultural and culinary boom.

In a city where houses used as commercial spaces tend towards the colorful and crafty, Justine's bawdy yet sophisticated design departure is refreshing. Justine, whose personal fashion preferences lean towards tailored lines like Rag & Bone, admits she can't resist scouring French flea markets for vintage bloomers and old perfume bottles to decorate her restaurant. One of her most treasured possessions is a framed print of Josephine Baker, the American who settled in Paris in the 1920s and went on to become perhaps the greatest entertainer of her time and the first African American woman to star in a motion picture. Justine is as connected to that portrait as both she and Pierre are to the blues collection they play, only on vinyl, for their guests during mealtimes. Locally, Justine praises Austin's antique emporium Uncommon Object's, where she finds "little things that are beautiful, like piles of old ribbon or typewriter parts."

As is obvious from the photo above, Justine and Pierre will be welcoming their first child (a boy) any day now. We hope he'll be better behaved than "L'enfant Terrible," the title of the Jean Cocteau novel and a phrase that refers to a child who "is terrifyingly candid by saying things to adults, especially parents"—and that is also the name of the restaurant's signature cocktail.

Here's How to Steal Justine's Look

An original Cocteau drawing hangs at Justine's. (1946 French Jean Cocteau Drawing; buy it now price, $10,000)

Justine says that she purchased many of her original Thonet chairs from eBay; most are from the early 1900s. (Set of Two Vintage Thonet Chairs; starting bid, $75)

For their Halloween "Blood Orange and Black Martini"-themed evening, Justine and Pierre had plenty of black candles on hand Victorian candelabras to up the goth factor. (Antique Victorian Bronze Candelabra; starting bid, $149)

The yard at Justine's is spacious and flat, perfect for a game of Petanque, a French lawn bowling game. Justine and Pierre laid gravel and created a court for guests to use while they relax before or after dinner. (Petanque Balls in Wood Case; buy it now price, $49.99)

Justine loves the marble top tables in the restaurant and claims many are over 100 years old. This one is a perfect way to femme up your bedside nightstand or a foyer. (Cast Iron and Marble Radio Stand Table; buy it now price, $99.99)

You won't find an ipod shuffling in the corner at Justine's. Turntables only and lots of blues including legends Robert Johnson and Muddy Waters. Vintage Templetone Interstate Tube Radio Phonograph; buy it now price, $164.99)

Gilded frames and bubble glass instantly transport any portriat to a bygone era. Antique Gilded Bubble Glass Wood Frame (buy it now price,$149.99)

Justine insists on "European size" silver plated forks and quality Laguiole knives; they're perfect for the house steak frites. (Set of Six Laguiole Steak Knives; buy it now price, $199)