How to Find the Perfect Pair of Jeans

By Suzanne Singer
May 13, 2011

Ya-el Torbati Just because denim fashions are wardrobe staples doesn't mean jeans don't provide a serious set of sartorial challenges. Frankly, the ever-elusive search for the "perfect" pair of jeans is why so many women's closets are overflowing with them.

Enter Ya-el Torbati, Creative Director of Raven Denim. Having designed denim at brands that run the gamut from mass market (American Eagle Outfitters) to cult (now-folded Yanuk), denim designer Torbati knows a thing or two about the "genes" behind good jeans. Raven's tailored denim "Mackenzie" trouser jeans—the perfect mix of flattering, comfortable and polished—put Raven Denim on the map. But Torbati also designs high-waisted ‘70s-style jeans, more casual slouchy shapes and everything in between.

Torbati shares some of her designer jean-ious with us.

The Inside Source: How did you get your start in the denim fashion industry?

Ya-el Torbati: I actually fell into specializing in denim while at American Eagle Outfitters. I was designing bottoms in general with another designer and their denim business grew so rapidly that we split the category and I became the denim designer. It was a great place to soak up and learn all the technicalities and beauty of denim, as I got to travel to denim mills and laundries all over the world.

Raven Denim Autumn/Winter 2011 Look Book Photo Shoot from ravendenim on Vimeo

The Inside Source: You've worked at various denim brands, like Yanuk and Deener, and as the denim designer for American Eagle Outfitters. How do you make Raven Denim fashions special?

Ya-el Torbati: I look at each brand as its own personality. I try to really understand who the customer base is, create a personality type and go from there while designing. So as I’m designing Raven, I really think about what that woman wants next. I try to evolve existing fits into something new.

The Inside Source: You've lived in so many different places, from to Jerusalem to New Orleans, New York and Los Angeles. How has that affected your denim designs?

Ya-el Torbati: I think we all do subconsciously carry with us a little bit of places we have lived. In terms of designing, from Israel, I’ve probably taken a sense of functionality in clothing from being surrounded by soldiers in their handsome uniforms everywhere you go. From New Orleans, I gained the desire to want to look unique in my sense of style and to avoid following the masses, so that is where my vintage hunting habits began. New York, of course, opened up a whole other world of inspiration from the energy of the city itself and all of the visual stimulation everywhere you go. L.A. is all about comfort and a relaxed vibe, so I think I started taking ideas of what I thought looked really good and making sure they also felt really good, too.

The Inside Source: You've described Raven Denim as "tailored, classic and sexy"—how is that look achieved?

Ya-el Torbati: The tailoring aspects come into play with our signature trouser jeans that have a menswear-inspired waistband that is lined with striped ticking fabric and has an inside hook and bar closure and an extend tab with a sew-on button. The fits are refined, and we work hard to make sure all butts look sexy in Raven!

The Inside Source: What are the new jean washes and denim fashion trends for spring 2011?

Ya-el Torbati: For the women’s line, I introduced some non-denim cotton/tencel/lycra blends this season, so that made it possible to introduce some new bodies like the Poppy slouchy carrot-fit cargo and the Vivee cropped boyfriend trouser. The Orly high waist wide leg is an ultra flattering fit and is offered up in several washes.

raven denim

Mackenzie, Poppy, Orly

The Inside Source: How does one find the "perfect" pair of jeans?"

Ya-el Torbati: I think through a lot of trial and error. Hopefully not too much error! In searching for new jeans, you have to just try on everything, as you never can truly read a fit just by looking at it flat. Also I think in general you can’t write off a whole brand based on one jean you try on. Keep trying different cuts and fabrics and you will probably find something that works great for you.. If you find a jean that you 90% love but just wish it was a little less snug or maybe a little tighter, grab another pair in the same exact size and it might just fit a little better. Denim production is not an exact science and there can be slight variation in the same production lot due to tolerance in shrinkage.

The Inside Source: How do you come up with a new collection for each season and what are the sources of fashion design inspiration?

Ya-el Torbati: Inspiration comes from all over, including online research, art, street style, friends, traveling, music, movies, etc. I usually make a plan for the type of new bodies I want in the line and one by one sketch them out and execute.

The Inside Source: What are the themes and fashion trends for your latest Raven Denim collection?

Ya-el Torbati: For the women’s line, this spring/summer season had two very different themes that actually worked quite harmoniously together. It’s a bit of '40s safari mixed with a '70s pool party! While the soft color palette, slouchy silhouettes, and utilitarian details evoked a vintage-like safari vibe, the washes and new denim bodies that included flares, wide legs, and high waists had a bohemian '70s summer feel.

above: Enid

The Inside Source: Do you shop on eBay onlines auctions? For what?

Ya-el Torbati: Yes! I love to search for vintage coats in the fall—I get pretty obsessed with that! Funny, since I live in L.A., but I’m one of those people that thinks 60 degrees is cold. In the summer, I get obsessed with finding vintage silk Vera scarves. And pretty much all year round, I look for vintage buttons, ceramics, '50s modern stuff of all sorts, and anything related to wiener dogs.

The Inside Source: Do you have any special eBay search tips?

Ya-el Torbati: I search with keywords but try to make it as specific or descriptive as possible by including an era, or a designer name, or a specific material. I save my favorite sellers and always check out their latest goods as well.

The Inside Source: What's your favorite all-time eBay purchase?

Ya-el Torbati: My favorite eBay purchase is an early '80s Yves Saint Laurent black and white tweed skinny coat. I was pretty much doing cartwheels when I won!

The Inside Source: Do you use eBay as a tool or as inspiration for your Raven Denim designs?

Ya-el Torbati: I always use eBay as a tool for inspiration, mainly looking for vintage references.

The Inside Source: Any favorite eBay search keywords that aid in your search, especially for this latest collection?

Ya-el Torbati: Some key words I used for Spring/Summer 2011: vintage utility, vintage safari, vintage buttons, vintage suspenders, vintage '70’s, '70s denim, Levi's Redline, Levi's Orange Tab, Levi's big E.

Ya-el Torbati's eBay Watch List

Roll over items for details

Vintage ‘70s Denim Keds Sneakers

(buy it now price $45)

"20th Century Pattern Design" Book by Lesley Jackson

(buy it now price, $25)

Vintage Levi’s 501 Big E Button Fly Jeans

Vintage Bakelite Bracelet Watch

Set of Vintage Wood Buttons

Vintage Vera Scarf

Vintage Dachshund Pretzel “Snack Hound”

(buy it now price $29.99)

Modern Danish Bookcase

(buy it now price, $800)

Antique Ikat Fabric

(buy it now price, $325)

Vintage ‘70s Wrangler Denim Jacket

(buy it now price, $100)

1. Vintage ‘70s Denim Keds Sneakers: “Dead stock Keds Grasshoper denim sneakers—so cute!”

2. "20^th Century Pattern Design" Book by Lesley Jackson: “This book is super-inspiring eye candy.”

3. Vintage Levi’s 501 Big E Button Fly Jeans: “I would buy these to use as a wash standard reference to aid the laundries in achieving the most natural vintage look”

4. Vintage Bakelite Bracelet Watch: “I love bakelite finds and this piece is so unique. The bonus is that the watch still works.”

5. Set of Vintage Wood Buttons: “I often find vintage buttons and get them re-created to use in the line."

6. Vintage Vera Scarf: “Obsessed with vintage Vera silk scarves”

7. Vintage Dachshund Pretzel “Snack Hound”: “I have a dachshund, so I am always looking for fun wiener dog objects.”

8. Antique Ikat Fabric: “Ikat fabric is so pretty, and this vintage find is made with indigo dyes.”

9. Modern Danish Bookcase: “I love mid-century/Danish modern furniture. This book case would work perfectly in my house”

10. Vintage ‘70s Wrangler Denim Jacket: “Such a cute dead stock Wrangler jacket.”

(images courtesy of Raven Denim)

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