How Chef Barbara Lynch Stirs Things Up

Culinary genius Barbara Lynch is not only one of Boston’s most beloved chefs, but she’s also a savvy businesswoman—a practically necessary combination, especially given the current economy. Her Boston-based company, Barbara Lynch Gruppo, owns a variety of food-related businesses in the area: critically acclaimed restaurant No. 9 Park; South End eateries B&G Oysters and butcher-shop-meets-wine bar, The Butcher Shop; Stir, a highly successful demonstration kitchen; Plum , a hip little organic vegetable market; and Sportello, a market-driven Italian lunch counter in Fort Point, which is upstairs from her fancy cocktail bar Drink.

This fall, Lynch introduced her first cookbook, Stir: Mixing It Up in the Italian Tradition, a sleek hardback featuring enticing recipes and alluring photos of Lynch’s modern Italian dishes. Each recipe is designed to mix practicality with panache, and to make a lasting impression on everyone at the dinner table. We caught up with Lynch to talk about the basics, from no-fail recipes to must-have spices to the kinds of tools it takes to turn out exquisite cuisine.

 The Inside Source: We’re going to talk about your favorite gadgets and kitchen equipment later, but what about the absolute basics, like pots and pans?

Barbara Lynch: I’m a big fan of nonstick pans, believe it or not. My cookware has to be induction friendly because I have an induction stove at home. All-Clad makes induction-friendly pots; so does IKEA. I like pots and pans in all kinds of sizes. I think you need a lot, even at home, except for maybe a 50-quart stockpot! I love cast iron pans too.

TIS: How about knives?

BL: The first thing I tell home cooks is, ‘Get a great knife and keep it sharp!’ I’m always sharpening my friends’ knives when I cook in their kitchens. I use MAC knives. Every cook should have a paring knife, an 8-inch and 10-inch chef knife, a boning knife and a utility knife.

TIS: What’s your go-to dish for a family dinner?

BL: My Creamy Polenta with Bolognese Sauce, which is in Stir. My daughter, who is 5, also loves raviolis with peas inside, though really, she’ll eat anything. She eats oysters, calamari, and of course, mac and cheese.

TIS: I have to ask, do you ever serve her mac & cheese out of the box? 

BL: Yes, I admit, I will if it’s just her. If I’m cooking for other people I’ll make ricotta gnocchi with cream and cheese.

TIS: Do you use other chefs’ cookbooks?

BL: I read cookbooks for inspiration. I especially like Alain Ducasse’s books. He has books on Mediterranean food, bistro cooking and desserts that I’ll often look at.

TIS: Is there a good basic cookbook that you recommend to people who are just starting out?

BL: My favorite for people learning to cook is Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table by Suzanne Goin [owner of the restaurant Lucques in Los Angeles] and Teri Gelber. They have a recipe for a simple grilled fish with a nice chutney.

TIS: If someone asks you for a no-fail recipe, what do you suggest?

BL: Beef tenderloin is great because you throw it in the oven, let it rest, slice it and serve it with a salad or side dish. The Chestnut Bisque from Stir is also very simple to make, and it’s impressive; I mean, who makes chestnut bisque?

TIS: What are your must-have spices and dressings?

BL: I like extra virgin olive oil and white balsamic vinegar; it’s less sweet than regular balsamic and doesn’t muddle, so your salad won’t look brown. Pepper, kosher salt, coriander, cumin powder, curry powder, cayenne pepper and fleur de sel. I always finish steak, chicken or fish with fleur de sel, which is a larger crystal that doesn’t immediately melt.

TIS: And when it’s time to serve the food, how do you present it?

BL: At home I stick with white dinnerware; it is all about the food looking beautiful—not the plate. Food looks best on white. If I’m throwing a cocktail party, I might use metal and wood bowls, but for dinner, I always stick with white porcelain.

Barbara Lynch shopped with us on eBay for her top kitchen gadgets and offered tips and tricks for using them.

1. Japan Whetstone Sharpening Knife Double Grits #220/800 (buy it now price, $34.99)

BL: Knife skills are an integral part of cooking, and sharp knives make a huge difference. Use a whetstone, going back and forth for twenty minutes per knife. Visit a kitchen supply store or watch a tutorial online to learn proper knife sharpening techniques.

2. Peugeot Paris Classic Chocolate Pepper Mill 18cm/7", (buy it now price, $34.95)

BL: Peugeot brand pepper mills work well for me.

3. Japanese Benriner Mandoline Vegetable Cutter/Slicer (buy it now price, $21)

Harvest Salad from Stir

BL: I buy small cheap mandolines from Chinatown; you just don’t need a fancy $70 one. The inexpensive mandolines are fantastic, because when the blade gets dull you can toss it and get a new one. Potato chips, vegetable gratins, shaved vegetable salads like my Harvest Salad (a favorite dish of mine and my friends) are so easy with this. It takes just minutes to cut paper thin, uniform slices.

4. Pro Grip Oyster Opener/Clam Knife (buy it now price, $6.99)

BL: I love oysters year round, but especially when spring is about to arrive in New England. That’s when I start craving rosé wine and oysters. There’s nothing better than icy, freshly shucked oysters and a great glass of wine. You have to be careful and learn how to properly shuck, but it can be fun to have a shucking party. A good oyster knife is squat, with a fat and comfortable handle and a short thick blade.

5. Vita Mix 1005 Prep Blender (buy it now price, $599.99)

Spicy Tomato Soup with Crispy Grilled Cheese from Stir

BL: I love, love, love my Vita Prep. If I could only have a few gadgets (and I am a huge fan of kitchen gadgets), the Vita Prep would be at the top of the list. It is brilliant for pureeing veggies for soups. We keep them in all the restaurant kitchens too. I love making soups – I’ve got several favorites in the book, including Spicy Tomato Soup With Crisp Caraway Grilled Cheese and Asparagus Soup With Saffron Croutons. I also use it to make smoothies for breakfast.

6. Ronco 5-Tray Electric Food Dehydrator (buy it now price, $48.38)

BL: I love dehydrating. I started playing around with dehydrators a few years ago and tried everything: herbs, fruits, veggies. I dry out herbs and then buzz them in a spice grinder for the most aromatic dried powders; they will blow you away! I make amazing celery powder that I add to soups. Dehydrated onions can be thrown in crème fraîche along with herbs to create a delicious dip. Watermelon becomes these incredible “chips;” you can make your own fruit leathers too. There are so many things to do with this! The advantage of using  a dehydrator versus attempting to dry things in an oven is that the machines maintain a steady, accurate temperature and perfect air circulation.

7. Silicone Baking Molds Kitchen Aid Flowers 5 Pieces NIB, (buy it now price, $14.99)

BL: Silicone molds are the ultimate for non-stick bakeware, and they’re super easy to clean. I use them for sweet and savory baking, like when I make my Cauliflower Chaud-Froid, which is in Stir.

8. Microplane Classic Series Zester/Grater (buy it now price, $12.99) 

BL: These are brilliant for zesting citrus and Parmiggiano-Reggiano—definitely a must-have in the kitchen.

9. Ronco Electric Pasta Maker (buy it now price, $114.99) 

Fresh Pasta from Stir

I’m known for my pastas. I have a whole section in Stir dedicated to pasta recipes. People love fresh pasta, but often find making it very intimidating. Once they get a feel for the dough, having something like an electric pasta maker helps make the entire process do-able in about 15 to 20 minutes. You can get a dedicated electric pasta maker, or if you have a Kitchen Aid mixer, they make a fantastic attachment, which is a less expensive option. You’ll be able to easily roll out fresh sheets of paste. From there, you can make linguine, pappardelle, even filled pastas. I always make my own raviolis for Easter with fresh ricotta cheese.

10. Fine Mesh China Cap Strainer (buy it now price $26.95)

This is another brilliant addition to your kitchen. The French call it a chinois because it resembles hats once worn in China. The conical shape is great for straining broths, soups, and sauces. Use a pestle or small ladle to press down on the food so you force through as much flavor as you can when staining liquids. This step guarantees a super silky soup or sauce.