How to Buy Heirloom Jewelry with Chris Del Gatto, Chairman & CEO of CIRCA

Chris Del Gatto knows rocks. At 17, he was a licensed gemologist. At 18, a diamond cutter in New York’s famed Diamond District. Since 2001, he’s been at the head of Circa, which he founded with partner Jeffrey Singer. Circa, a jewelry buying firm, caters to customers who want assurance that that their own precious heirloom jewelry pieces go to the right home—for the right price. For Chris Del Gatto, spotting a classic Van Cleef & Arpels bauble or Rolex watch is second nature. For the rest of us, buying a piece of vintage jewelry that doesn’t come directly from the hallowed, gleaming showcases of, say, a Madison Avenue jeweler, is a leap of faith, sometimes costly.

Yet there are ways even the avid novice buyer can find a great piece of heirloom jewelry. Del Gatto has very specific search keywords when he’s on the lookout. “Since jewelry can be defined by makers and periods, search words with important jewelers will bring you to relevant sites,” he said. “For example, use ‘Sterlé, Flato, Schlumberger, Boivin.’  As in ‘where to buy pieces by…’ or periods like ‘Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, etc.’ The more specific you can be, of course, the better.” Like, “Schlumberger bracelet” or “Edwardian pendant.” Del Gatto is partial to Art Deco jewelry, large diamonds and fine rubies.

Vintage jewelry buyers often get caught up in clarity, overlooking color, cut and great design. Afterall, Coco Chanel’s own original Verdura cuffs actually had cloudy stones in them, adding to their bespoke look. “Designers select stones and elements that contribute to their vision of the piece. So, that imperfection is part of the value—it’s not about the break-up value of the stones,” explained Del Gatto. “Wonderful designers like Seaman Schepps, David Webb and even Cartier have  used stones for color and shape and not for clarity, and their pieces are always sought after.”

The holidays, especially, are a big time for buying heirloom jewelry, and Chris del Gatto has a few tips for finding pieces that won’t lose their value. “All fine jewelry will retain at least its intrinsic value, which is the value of the precious metals and gemstones,” he says. “But, iconic pieces which are associated with the important makers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. will always stand the test of time. It’s also important that one develops an ‘eye’ for beauty—who knew the [Cartier] LOVE bangle would have such staying power!”

Right now, Chris Del Gatto believes fashion is ushering in the return of Mid-Century antique jewelry, which would be a great option for the on-trend giftee. “I think the big long chains, medallions and Sixties’ groovy, wearable pieces will be enjoying a revival,” he said.

And for the men? “A beautiful watch will always be appreciated. I have a Breguet that a dear friend gave me that is one of my prized possessions,” del Gatto said. Another option is "a great signet ring with a carved cameo. Search terms would be ‘men’s watches, men’s luxury watches, men’s signet rings,” he offers.

No matter what you’re searching for, though, one of Chris Del Gatto’s most important rules is one any vintage jewelry lover knows intrinsically: “Always buy something you really love.”