Fashion Week Report: The Footwear Factor

By Robert Cordero
February 18, 2010

rodarte

Rodarte (Photo by Paul Morigi/WireImage)

At first, the statement shoe didn't merit frontal lobe attention, as it’s not totally new. Shoes have always had an important place in fashion (and women's closets) and this particular over- the-top look has its roots from the bold hardware used in Balmain's Fall '09 shoe collection, according to Carolyn Hsu, Managing Editor of The Daily Obsession, a cleanly designed, clever blog with a healthy following of 200,000 unique monthly style addics. “I think all of a sudden everyone wanted to be a part of that tough, rock and roll chic [trend] and the look just took off [with shoes especially]. For spring, the feel is more casual and the cork, wood and rope textures [that are popular in footwear this season] add a nautical, laid back, element that pairs nicely with lighter clothing colors,” explains Hsu. For fall, however, dramatic footwear has gone to the next level, with practically gravity-defying embellishments, artful heels and unusual materials.

3.1 Phillip Lim (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for IMG), Jeremy Scott (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

3.1 Philip Lim, who refreshingly reigned in the frippery design elements in his collections, showed chunky suede shoes with tassles and fringes. At Tory Burch’s presentation, the ballerina flats that had every girl from Palm Beach to Paris swoon a few yeas back gave way to sturdier shoes such as feminized versions of mountaineering boots replete with heels and studded black pumps.

jeremy scott

Though a number of designers gave a wow factor to footwear, Hsu pointed out the following: “Diesel Black Gold sent models down the runway in studded sandals; L.A.M.B had lace shoes; Thakoon’s [shoes] had fur and Vivienne Tam had buckles.”

At Jeremy’s Scott’s show, leather boots were bejeweled and engulfed in metal plates, but show goers such as Cody Ross, the designer behind edgy womenswear label Priestess NYC, noticed the winged sneakers in the front row at Jeremy Scott (below). “Worn with lots of leggings with fun colors and crazy prints, they are a perfect foil and really enhance the look,” says Ross.

Front row at Jeremy Scott (Photo by Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images)

From left to right: Thakoon, Tim Hamilton, Thakoon, a Fashion Week attendee

"Designers are striving for innovation, differentiation and niche/unique themes,” explains Ross who counts Raphael Young, Jerome Rousseau and Nicholas Kirkwood as his favorite shoe designers for catching this nuanced look. From a consumer standpoint, another trend is making your accessories the focus of your outfit rather than the actual pieces of clothing,” says Hsu. “This can be also be seen in jewelry trends (big bracelets and necklaces) as well as in fashion trends. (Whites, camels and other neutrals are big this season, creating the perfect backdrop canvas to showcase daring accessories.) Shoes are becoming just as much of a focal point [as jewelry] in accessorizing the complete outfit.”

Shop Statement Shoes on eBay

Giambattista Valli Brown Stiched Pumps (buy it now price, $390), Rodarte Nicholas Kirkwood Blue High Heels (buy it now price, $1,750)

Runway Buckle Suede Ankle Boots (buy it now price, $99), Giuseppe Zanotti Studded Flats Shoes (buy it now price, $295) Gucci Babouska Studded Heel (buy it now price, $399)