Fashion Week Report: Belgium's Best

By Robert Cordero
February 16, 2010

In the sport of tennis, there are two great stars from Belgium: Kim Clijsters and Justine Henin. But in fashion, there are countless influential designers from the small European country, each one making a lasting impact on the world of style. Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkemberg and Walter Van Beirendonck are known as the Antwerp Six, a group of avant garde designers who graduated from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980-1981 and created influential work that established Antwerp as a mini fashion capital, breaking out in the late 1980s with a show in London. Martin Margiela, who also studied at Antwerp Royal Academy, is often considered the seventh member of this group, though he did not show with the others in London. Raf Simons of Jil Sander, Veronique Branquinho, who has been designing her own label for over a dozen years, and Olivier Theyskens, who recently designed his last collection for Nina Ricci, are other notable Belgian designers who have distinct styles yet share a forward-thinking, innovative aesthetic.

While we rely on the Italians to produce the most sophisticated products and the French for luxurious goods, the Belgians' fashion trademark consists of complex, yet thoughtfully executed items that give your wardrobe a progressive kick.

Showroom Antwerp; Stephen Schneider designs (center)

Yesterday was the first day of Showroom Antwerp, a four day event at the New York Times building organized by the Flanders Fashion Institute and designed to showcase the best of both emerging and established Belgian design. Among the most notable presenters: Lenny Leleu, whose lascivious geometric cutouts on swimsuits leave little to the imagination, Anke Loh, whose technologically advanced clothing was well-showcased in the intimate environment, and Stephan Schneider, a German but schooled at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp who not only produces his own textiles, but also cuts the best menswear fashions in the business.

Marc Jacobs (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images), Donna Karan (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images for IMG)

After viewing such talents, I suddently started to suss out similar elements elsewhere. Halston designer Marios Schwab’s sculptural silhouettes and asymmetrical elements are Margiela-esque, while Rad Hourani’s inventive and experimental tailoring call to mind Raf Simons’ technical ingenuity. Marc Jacobs’ rigid masculine-meets-feminine silhouettes are reminiscent of Branquinho’s insistence on functionality. Donna Karan’s dresses textural pleats recalled Theyskens' romantic dresses during his Nina Ricci days.

Catch the Best of the Belgians on eBay

Martin Margiela Cape Dress (starting bid, $399), Raf Simons Men's Panel Shirt (starting bid, $135), Dries Van Noten Skirt (buy it now price, $299)

From left to right: Ann Demeulemeester Dress (buy it now price, $289), Veronique Branquinho Swiss Dot Top (buy it now price, $39.99)

Robert Cordero is editor at JC Report, an influential online global style publication, where he also works on the new media company's business development and marketing initiatives.

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