CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist Antonio Azzuolo on What Every Man Needs in His Closet

By Stephen Watson
August 12, 2011

For any fashion designer, creating something fresh season after season is a constant challenge. It's even more difficult in the world of menswear, especially if you're looking to produce something that's at once interesting and commercial. Enter Antonio Azzuolo, whose mens collection, a.a., combines elements of his past professional work—the clean prep of Ralph Lauren, where he was Design Director for Ralph Lauren Purple and Black Label; the pure, horse-y elegance of Hermes and the Euro flair of Kenzo, where he worked in design; and the attention to detail learned at the hand of his father, who was a tailor by trade.

Antonio Azzuolo

Fashion designer Antonio Azzuolo with a model at his Fall 2011 presentation.

Azzuolo, who launched his line in 2007, has a talent for to breaking with convention and pushing menswear forward while still keeping his feet firmly in the worlds of classic tailoring and impeccable technique. Though he playfully subverts traditional references as diverse as surfers, preppies, rockers, and cowboys, his signature hand shows through every season. As the recent recipient of a coveted nomination as a finalist for the 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, this talented menswear designer is on the verge of some very big things.

The Inside Source: Can you describe your menswear collection? Who is your ideal customer?

Antonio Azzuolo: This is always a challenging question to answer, but let me simplify things by listing key words that I feel are brand attribute, values, etc: poetic, artisanal, interpretation of iconic dress, fresh, contemplative, artistry and sartorial craftsmanship, exploration of archetypes. [The] ideal customer, I guess, would be someone that appreciates these qualities. He has a strong sense of self, stylish and [is] socially conscious,

The Inside Source: When you start working on a new fashion collection, where do you begin?

Antonio Azzuolo: The process is as I would do it for a larger company, except it’s on a much smaller scale. I usually start with fabric research and ideas, as well as some key visuals or references… There is an inevitable progression that sort of determines the general direction of things on a more long-term basis. Simultaneously, there are references that I play with or explore, on a seasonal basis.

Antonio Azzuolo

Antonio Azzuolo Fall 2011

The Inside Source: At what point in your career did you decide it was time to go off on your own?

Antonio Azzuolo: After doing Ralph Lauren Purple and Black label.

The Inside Source: You are well known for your sharp tailoring—what elements make up a sharp suit these days?

Antonio Azzuolo: Sartorial tailoring, proper fit (streamlined), shoulder and sleeve construction, a sharp guy!

The Inside Source: What are some inspirations for the upcoming fashion season? What are you excited about for Spring 2012, which you'll show at Fashion Week in September?

Antonio Azzuolo: An inspiring reference to Jacques Cousteau—but only as a reference—with a mod St Germain des Pres... Sort of Jacques meets Juliette Greco! I’m excited about a travel bag concept we are launching, and the focus on signature a.a. items. Some of these will be part of the second tier/opening price point segment of the line. [I'm] looking at a joint venture with a manufacturer to produce and distribute this segment of the line.

Antonio Azzuolo