Built by Wendy

Wendy Mullin’s fashion brand, Built by Wendy, is known for its quiet cool, mixing clean lines with playful prints and subtly quirky details. Never trendy yet always on-trend, the 15 year-old line is a perpetual favorite for many an indie actress (like Kirsten Dunst, Parker Posey, and Zooey Deschanel, to name a few). Curious to learn more about the girl behind the label, we rang Mullin at her Brooklyn studio, and the nine-months-pregnant designer revealed not only her inspirations (which are as diverse as 80’s-era Vuarnet sunglasses, French New Wave films, and obscure African textiles) but her late night habit for online shopping “in a delirious state.”

Photo credit for Mullin's portrait: Melodie McDaniel

The Inside Source: I notice you’ve got pieces in your fall collection called Mies, Albers, and Bauhaus—was that era a big part of your inspiration?

Wendy Mullin: Yeah, I love the Bauhaus movement. My parents had a lot of Mies furniture, and I love that modern aesthetic. It’s a loose inspiration though—it’s not like I was making clothes that look like buildings! I thought more about an architecture student from the 60’s and what she would wear: cool, dark, and serious.

TIS: Generally, is vintage a big inspiration for you?

MW: It is, though I really do a mix of things. I’m inspired by memories of classic things, whether it’s a Woolrich coat or a French sailor shirt. Things that I wore as a kid of in my teenage years. A lot of what I do is blend things: I love French country prints like Pierre Deux and like to combine that with Japanese textiles, and do a print that somehow feels Japanese and French at the same time.

TIS: Are there certain eras that you really love?

WM: I was born in 1970 so I see things as they’ve filtered through the last four decades. I wouldn’t say that I have a specific time period that I go back to though. I might go to a museum and see a men’s vest that guys used to wear to build railroads in the 1800’s, and then mix that with 80’s new wave. I’m really inspired by old movies. I love Eric Rohmer films. Most of them are shot in the south of France, and there’s always a pretty, muse-y type of girl that can be inspiring. When I’m designing, I try to pick a muse for the season, and then I try to picture her wearing the entire collection.

TIS: What are some of your favorite looks for fall?

WM: I love the jackets, like the overcast coat. I like the sweatpants I did because I’m sick of all my pants being too tight. I want comfort. I’m excited about the thermal waffle weave dresses and silky dresses too.

All images courtesy of Built By Wendy

TIS: Are you a big eBay shopper?

MW: I love eBay. Shopping the site is one of my favorite activities. I’m a little bit of an addictive online shopper. I’ve been pregnant for the last nine months and lately I haven’t been sleeping well. I wake up at three in the morning and end up bidding on stuff. About a month ago I bid on all kinds of things in a delirious state and all these packages started showing up on my doorstep! I got a tribal tunic that came all the way from Uzbekistan that I don’t even really remember ordering!

TIS: Are there certain things you look for over and over?

WM: I love searching for textiles—vintage wools or kilims or ikat fabrics, Hawaiian prints, quilts. I was on a big African textile kick last fall and loaded up on African blankets. I tend to shop more for home décor than fashion. Right now I’m in the market for ceramic garden stools and indoor/outdoor rugs. My apartment has carpeting, and with a baby coming I don’t want it to get ruined, so I’m looking for a waterproof rug that can be easily cleaned. Ebay is so non-stop. You can get really deep with it.

TIS: What are some of your all-time favorite scores?

WM: I got this quilt/wall hanging that I really love. It’s African, in pink and light blue with a border of other colors on each end. I really love the tunic I got from Uzbekistan too. And recently I got this Marimekko vintage pillow cover with a silk screen of little kids on it, that I cut apart and framed for the baby’s room.

Here, Mullin shares some of the goods on her eBay wish list:

Roll over items for details

NEW Ludwig Mies Van Der Rohe & Lilly Reich: Furniture and I

“A great book on Mies Van Der Rohe furniture. My Fall 2010 collection was inspired by Bauhaus era design. This book is a perfect companion.”

(buy it now price, $70.94)

NEW Pierre Deux French Country Placemats

“I love classic toile and all French country type home decor. I actually designed my own toile print years ago but made it psychedelic using space ships and outerspace imagery but drawn in toile style.”

(current bid, $51)

NEW Marimekko Pentti Rinta Miilu Fabric

“I love Marimekko and their style is a big influence on me. Here is some classic striped Marimekko fabric from the 70's. I need to make some curtains for my baby room and this fabric is perfect.”

(winning bid, $16.50)

Vintage 90’s Le Coq Sportif Windbreaker

“Being a teen in the 80's is a big influence on my style. I love mixing in a little classic 80's vibe into all of my collections. Right now I'm really feeling the luxury resort feel of Le Coq Sportif.”

(starting bid, $9.99)

NEW Women’s Bass Sunjun Sandals

“These are classic Sunjuns. I wore these in the 80's too—they were a must-have. Always chic and bohemian but classy and preppy too. And sooo comfortable!”

(winning bid, $20.50)

NEW Deep Green Lattice Ceramic Garden Stool

“I don't have a garden yet but I thought these could make a cute side table in my living room which has an earthy feel.”

(buy it now price, $236.55)

Yoruba Aso Oke Floating Weft African Textile

“This is a floating weft textile from Nigeria. I'm always inspired by interesting colorways so I like to search for textiles from around the world. I love this one.”

(buy it now price, $68)

Vintage Vuarnet 002D Pouilloux Black Sunglasses

“Here is a classic pair from the 80's. All the kids in high school had these. It seems like they are back in fashion—kind of a snotty James Spader 80's look.”

(current bid, $36)