Carlos Falchi, Master of the Handbag, on Exotic Skins and Dressing Mick Jagger

By Suzanne Singer
November 5, 2010

Not many designers can quit the fashion world and then make a meaningful comeback. Yet handbag designer Carlos Falchi, who took a hiatus in the early 1990s, relaunched the Carlos Falchi collection in 1999 and is now an enormous success.

Carlos Falchi's story begins in the '60s. when he moved to New York from Brazil and began working at the infamous rock 'n roll haunt, Max's Kansas City. It was there that his own handmade designs drew such attention that he began to make stage costumes for performers including Miles Davis, Mick Jagger, Elvis Presley and Tina Turner. When someone suggested he show his samples to a fashion buyer at famed New York mega-boutique Henri Bendel, his fate as a handbag designer took hold—instead of focusing on the clothes that Carlos Falchi presented, the Bendel's buyer loved the custom designed satchel in which he carried them in and she ordered designer handbags from him right then and there.

Carlos Falchi’s handbag medium has always been leather and skins. "My signature bags are renowned for their use of exotic skins and fine leathers and the shapes, which include [everything from] sleek and minimal clutches to oversized hobos," he said. When designing handbags, Falchi uses bright color combinations and interesting patterns and textures that are attained, he told us, by "unique leather treatments and a passionate involvement with the distinctive design of each skin."

While Falchi first achieved his trendy designer status back in the day, he has managed to stay current by having his hand in many fashion trend pots, so to speak. In addition to his own line of designer handbags and leather accessories, which fly off the shelves at stores like Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman, he designs accessories for fashion designers such as Donna Karan, Vera Wang, Ralph Rucci and Bill Blass. Falchi also designs for the entertainment industry. His handbags are worn regularly by actress Blake Lively on the red carpet, by the "Gossip Girl" cast on-set and have made appearances in movies including "The Devil Wears Prada," and "Sex and the City" 1 and 2. Super chain Target even approached him to do a handbag line for them last year.

The Inside Source: How did you get involved in the fashion business?

Carlos Falchi: My designs have influenced the market since Women's Wear Daily declared my Buffalo Satchel "the most copied bag in the industry." My rule-breaking approach to design evolved in the early '70s out of a desire to make unconventional clothes and bags for myself. My musician friends then began wearing my leather designs as stage costumes, and they in turn introduced my work to industry veterans such as Miles Davis, Elvis Presley and Mick Jagger.

The Inside Source: What made you start to use skins in your handbag designs?

Carlos Falchi: When I first started making pants for myself, I worked with leather. At the time, I was living next to a shoe factory where I found scraps of skins, which gave me the idea to incorporate them into my clothing. That's actually where my first patchwork designs started 40 years ago.

The Inside Source: What was the big break that launched your fashion design career?

Carlos Falchi: I met Miles Davis' drummer when I was working as at Max's Kansas City. He came in and asked me where I got my pants and I offered to make him a pair. Then Miles wanted a pair for himself. Next thing you know, I was making pants for Miles, Tina Turner, etc.

In the beginning, my handbags were distinguished by these original collages designed with an incredible range of multicolored exotic skins. Then, after having studied traditional arts in Japan, I reinvented my approach to the design. In 1979, I made my first unconstructed bag, the unlined buffalo satchel, made from a single skin with only two seams.

Carlos Falchi Bags

Clockwise from top left: New Rush Bag in Brown Python with Caiman ($3,495); Large Zip Pocket Hobo in Red Python ($2,395); Scallop Clutch with Jewel Black Python ($895); Ombre Python Flat Clutch ($995); Scallop Clutch with Jewel Taupe Python ($895)

The Inside Source: What is your philosophy on designing handbags for women?

Carlos Falchi: I firmly believe that a woman's handbag is an extension of herself; a vessel. She carries in that one bag so many possessions that are important to her life and [that] help characterize who she is. It is more than utilitarian. With this in mind, I design my handbags from the inside out, focusing my attention on the lining and compartments to make each handbag beautiful as well as functional. I am incredibly dedicated to the quality of my product. I love to hear from my loyal customers that their bags have lasted for decades.

The Inside Source: What is your design process?

Carlos Falchi: I begin by painting things that I find inspiring in my everyday life… the palette from my paintings then produces the color story for the season. The color story then dictates which skins are purchased. Once I see the skins and their various gorgeous tones and textures, I then decide the kinds of new shapes that should be created based on the skin.

The Inside Source: What inspired you for your Fall 2010 accessory collection?

Carlos Falchi: The inspiration for the Fall collection is the farm and farm life. I was inspired by deep rusts, as in the color of a barn, and the hunter greens that appear in wooded areas. I traveled to areas that had beautiful trees and painted everything around me. We examined the color of bark and all of its various shades, pulling inspiration from the grey tones of wood and the rocks nearby.

The Inside Source: What's one of your favorite looks?

Carlos Falchi: The Rush bag in combination caiman and python that we made in rust color. It would look fabulous with the shearling and military coats that they are showing right now.

The Inside Source: And how does that play out in the fall collection?

Carlos Falchi: We pulled through the natural colors of the woods and farm life. We used heavily textured skins to evoke the rough quality of bark and skins that were more rugged. The colors are saturated but also distressed.

The Inside Source: And now on to our favorite… shopping! What are some your favorite stores?

Carlos Falchi: We love a store called Nest Interiors in Chelsea. It has the most amazing home goods from all different eras; each piece would be a stand out item in your home. Whether it’s vintage prints of insects or color blocked throw pillows, they will have it."

The Inside Source: Do you shop on eBay?

Carlos Falchi: Yes!

(images provided by Carlos Falchi)