Behind the Seams with America's Best Menswear Shops (Part 2)

By Chris Frey
April 6, 2011

Field House; Unionmade

Field House, Unionmade

We tend to put the ladies first here at The Inside Source. But the plethora of mens clothing stores and men's boutiques opening up across the country—not to mention all the borrowing from the boys women have been doing these past few seasons—has us curious about what fashion trends the Y chromosome is wearing right now.

Last week, we went south with Stag in Austin, TX and Imogene + Willie in Nashville, TN, both named among GQ magazine's Ten Best Independent Men's Stores in America. This week, we head west with two more stores from the same list: Unionmade in San Francisco and Seattle-based The Field House.

Unionmade

Unionmade

images courtesy of Unionmade

A former liquor store nestled between the Mission and Castro neighborhoods, Unionmade is a modern-day resource for durable, quality menswear fashion designs that stand the test of time. A wall of owner Todd Barket's personal vintage black and white photographs keeps the present tied to past, while the store mascot, a rescued greyhound named Buddy, has been helping customers feel at home since the Unionmade shop opened in 2009.

The Inside Source: What inspired the name Unionmade?

Todd Barket: A vintage denim jacket. There was a denim line with the same name. I thought it would be a great way to communicate quality and craftsmanship.

The Inside Source: How would you describe Unionmade's ideal customer?

Todd Barket: Our customers are all over the place. We have everyone from 20 year-olds to guys that have 20 year olds. I would say we skew a bit older and I really try and make the selections as democratic as possible.

The Inside Source: What is the philosophy behind the designer fashion brands and objects you carry at Unionmade?

Todd Barket: They have to be practical and great quality. We try to find the best of a category and then compliment it with items that are nicely made and everyone can use. We have a really strong foundation of essentials and then we layer our version of fashion, which could be something as simple as khaki in color or the perfect art book.

The Inside Source: What are the items that Unionmade is carrying that you are most excited about?

Todd Barket:

1) Alden blue suede tassel loafers designed by us.

2) Eunice Chinos.

3) Golden Bear jackets that are designed by us here in San Francisco.

4) Mt Rainier cotton nylon parka.

5) Oil Cloth travel bag from WMJ Mills designed by us.

6) Brown chambray shirt from J Crew.

The Inside Source: What do you see happening in men's fashion trends right now?

Todd Barket: I definitely follow trends. I think it's important to interpret what is going on in a mature accessible way for our customer. The good news is, in the genre we work in, the changes are slight and small details change. For spring it's all about chinos, nylon outerwear, nautical stripes, and chambray.

The Inside Source: What's the perfect "suit" for a Unionmade guy?

Todd Barket: 1947 501's. Saint James Stripe T. Cardigan. Aldens, no socks.

The Inside Source: Your three favorite fashion designers?

Todd Barket: Dries Van Noten, Margaret Howell, Jil Sander.

The Inside Source: For a guy trying to build his wardrobe, which accessories are key?

Todd Barket: A good pair of shoes. Hands down. Spend your money there and the rest will fall into place.

The Inside Source: What style icons do you return to again and again for inspiration?

Todd Barket: I work from an edited place. I think I look at the classics: Andy Warhol, Woody Allen, Serge Gainsbourg, Steve McQueen

The Inside Source: What other influences are important to you?

Todd Barket: I'm a huge fan of graphic design from the 1960's; I Iike when things are accessible to everyone. Back then, design made its way into popular culture in an interesting way, be it a mural or a shopping bag. I like the idea that everyone has access to nice things, from food to objects. I think it comes from living in San Francisco. Some of my [other] influences are jazz, art books, and food.

The Field House

Field House

images courtesy of Field House

The Field House was conceived in 2009 as an experimental pop-up shop in the backyard (literally) of the Blackbird store, a cornerstone of Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood. The shop pays homage to the traditions of a bygone era. There are fashion trends and accessories, but also dry goods like soda, candy, coffee and toothpaste, and even wooden hatchets. Shopping here will make you feel as if you’ve traveled back in time, which is precisely how owner Nicole Miller wants it.

The Inside Source: How would you describe your customer?

Nicole Miller: Strangely, it's everyone. We get the young, the old, men, women and children of all social castes.

The Inside Source: What is the philosophy behind the brands and objects at The Field House?

Nicole Miller: We strive to present products that embody the ideas of old. hings are hand made, made by old companies or simply evoke feelings from the past through their designs. People are losing the ability to make things with their own hands. We want to inspire and educate our community to learn and be more self-sufficient.

The Inside Source: What are the vintage inspired, old or handmade items at The Field House that you are most excited about?

Nicole Miller:

1. The new Pendleton Vintage Fit shirts. They're now offering slimmer fits to fit our demographic. Prices are generally under a hundred dollars for a nice wool shirt.

2. Ballard Bee Co. honey.

3. The Strong Hold jeans, A Los Angeles based company-reproducing denim in the spirit of the original company from 1895's designs and methods.

4. All of our new Alden for Blackbird shoes and boots. This collaboration was truly a great experience and we hope for much more in the future.

5. Blackbird Coffee: We worked with local [store] Cafe Vita to create a blend that we think everyone will like.

The Inside Source: What fashion trends do you see happening in menswear right now?

Nicole Miller: I see a split between American and modern contemporary styles. The average American male still insists on dressing baggy and/or sloppy, but is starting to catch on to the idea of wearing clothes that fit and are appropriate. Things are changing.

The Inside Source: What's the perfect "suit" for a Field House guy?

Nicole Miller: Anything that looks like it's from another time. We love layers and textures with lots of accessories.

The Inside Source: Your three favorite fashion designers?

Nicole Miller: This may have nothing to do with The Field House, but my current list of favorite designers is The Viridi-anne from Japan and Alessandro of Nasomatto fragrances.

The Inside Source: For a guy trying to build his wardrobe, which accessories are key?

Nicole Miller: A few good basic ties, real socks (not tube) and a nice wallet.

The Inside Source: What style icons do you return to again and again for inspiration?

Nicole Miller: Steve McQueen, Siki Im, Marlene Dietrich and my dad.

The Inside Source: What other influences are important to you?

Nicole Miller: Right now I am obsessed with fragrance and research non-stop in my spare time. I am also influenced by the music of my youth: The Clash, The Smiths and The Misfits. Native Americans and the mountain men fur trappers. Life on the sea. Life on the farm. Ballet Russe. Japanese design and culture. Canning and preserving food.

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