A Time Out with Benjamin Clymer, Expert Watch Blogger

Benjamin Clymer knows watches. The former UBS analyst waxes on about dials, chronographs and complications with an expertise few can match. But he also has the innate ability to make stories about these intricate machines entertaining and above all, easy for us laymen to understand. Clymer launched Hodinkee in June 2008, after a friend asked the longtime watch fanatic for assistance in choosing the right timepiece. The friend was more-than-pleased with the results, and Clymer soon decided to take his skill online, writing up nuggets of info—from details on the Charles Lindbergh-designed collection for Longines to tips on where to buy a budget friendly timepiece—in a way that novice collectors could enjoy. By April 2009, Clymer decided to make the blog a career. "When I launched the site, I had no idea it would ever make one penny, let alone become a full-time business," says Clymer. "But I really just love covering the most interesting watches in the world. You know, the pieces that most people don't even know exist." Here, Clymer delves into the mysterious world of watch collecting with The Inside Source.

The Inside Source: In the past year, you transitioned from working in finance to blogging full-time. How has it changed your life?
Benjamin Clymer: My life is now my own. Before leaving UBS, I often found myself wishing I was somewhere else for the majority of the day. I was working on deals and managing projects during normal business hours, but when an important email or call came in involving Hodinkee, I would find an excuse to bow out of my offices and head down to the lobby to respond. For the first ten months of Hodinkee's life I was writing and publishing it before and after work, over my lunch break and from my iPhone under my desk. Now, I am busier than I ever was in my two previous positions (the most recent at UBS, the other as a strategy consultant), but I enjoy it so much more. I get to be creative and sculpt something I know people really enjoy. While it was hard to argue with the salary that comes along with working for a big company, I am much happier writing about watches full-time and being my own boss.

TIS: Why focus on watches? What's your personal connection to them?
BC: I've always been intrigued by antique industrial items. If you go into my childhood bedroom, you'll find dozens of little artifacts that I picked up at garage sales and from my grandparents' basements growing up. There are old cigarette lighters from the '60s, vintage compasses from the '40s, photographers' light meters, old telephones, military medals and of course pocket and wristwatches. I became really interested in timepieces at 16 when my grandfather gave me an Omega Speedmaster. I read about the history of the watch [it was worn on the moon by the Apollo astronauts], what made it so special and how it worked.  Since then, my love has only grown. Even before I launched Hodinkee, I was known among friends as a watch nut. My grandfather was also a lover of watches and without him, I definitely would not be doing what I'm doing now.

TIS: In our experience, watch collectors are as passionate about timepieces as car collectors are about vintage models. Why do you think this particular jewelry item creates such fervor in people?
BC: There are two reasons that people are so fascinated with watches. The first is that from a technical standpoint, they are nothing short of astonishing. Imagine a system of gears, cogs and levels so advanced, that—if kept wound—you will not have to touch at all to have it remain accurate forever. And remember, this is all done without the use of a processor or a microchip; a large percentage of what powers a watch was designed in the 1700s. Mechanical timepieces are some of the most amazing machines on the planet. I think the second reason is that watches have an inherent longevity.  To many people, they are daily reminders of a person or place. Sure, they're stylish and functional, but above all else they're heirlooms. 

TIS: What are some of your all-time favorite watches?
BC: To me there is nothing cooler than a great vintage Rolex on a NATO (nylon) strap. One model in particular that I love is called a Rolex Red Submariner. It was only made for a few years in the late '60s and early '70s and was the first Rolex diving watch with a date function. The actual name "Submariner" is written in red text instead of white and that increases the value immensely. The watch itself is just a classic…rugged, functional, and to me, beautiful. The look is just as much total Americana as it is continental European, and that is a rare combination, but one I identify with.   Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of the purest watches ever made and is definitely one of my favorites. So is the Omega Speedmaster Professional. A watch that I own that I think is very cool is the Heuer Camaro. Again, it was only made in the late '60s and early '70s, and it was Heuer's first foray into capturing the American market. Jack Heuer named it after what was then the most bad ass American car on the road, the Chevy Camaro. The watch itself is rather understated. It's a "cushion" shape, which means the case is squared off with slightly rounded corners. 

TIS: What about more modern designs?
BC: I love Maximilian Büsser & Friends' HM2, the Maitres du Temps Chapter One and anything from Urwerk, but all of those are slightly out of my price range.

TIS: We'd assume that watch collectors are predominantly male. Do you have a significant number of female readers? And if so, how do the two groups differ in terms of what they're looking for in a watch?
BC: We've gotten a lot of attention from fashion and style sites recently, so our female readership is definitely on the upswing. Believe it or not, the difference between men and women in terms of what they're looking for in a watch is not dramatic. I've seen a huge spike in interest—coming from both men and women—in vintage and vintage-inspired timepieces. The resurgence of '60's classicism (courtesy of Mad Men, etc.) coupled with the downturn in the economy has had everyone looking for smaller, more understated pieces, which is music to my ears. I will say that more women are looking to wear mid-sized men's watches, particularly Rolex Datejusts and Cartier Tanks, both of which look great on a woman.  

TIS: You've found some great watch deals on eBay. Do you have any tips in terms of looking for quality and authenticity?
BC: Watches on eBay can be tough because there are so many "iffy" sellers out there.  My recommendation is to do your homework on the seller and if they have a major presence on eBay, you are likely okay.  For example, some of the biggest and best vintage watch dealers in the world, including Robert Maron and Caliber Swiss, sell via eBay regularly, and many of them start each auction at only $.99. You can get some tremendous deals. In fact I bought my Heuer Camaro on eBay and I couldn't have been happier with the entire transaction. That said, use common sense. If you are getting what should be a $10,000 watch for $2,500, something is wrong. But if you are getting a $10,000 watch for $7,500, you may just have lucked out. There is such a thing as getting too good of a deal in watches.

TIS:. If you had all the money in the world, what would be the most you'd be willing to spend on a watch?
BC: Believe it or not, I'd probably reach my limit pretty quickly. I buy watches to wear them, and the models that strike my fancy are rare certainly, but not so rare that I'd be afraid to take them out of the house. That said, I'd do just about anything to own a Chapter One from Maitres du Temps, which retails for around $395,000 or an Audemars Piguet Grande Complication, which has a sticker of around $600,000. Though let's just say I wouldn't be wearing those to the gym.  
  

What Ben Clymer is Currently Craving on eBay

Roll over items for details

Vintage Heuer Carrera Dato 45

(buy it now price, $3,000)

Women's Patek Philippe Twenty 4 Steel

(buy it now price, $7,400)

Women's Swiss Army Vivante

(buy it now price, $169.98)

Vintage Heuer Carrera Dato 45 
This is a rare version of the iconic Heuer racing watch, the Carrera.  The date window at 9 o'clock and the 45 minute counter, coupled with the fact that it's signed by the store at which it was originally sold, make this a great vintage piece.  

Women's Patek Philippe Twenty 4 Steel 
This is one of the most famous women's watches to be introduced in the last decade.  It is truly a masterful all-purpose women's watch that, despite being set with a diamond or two, can even be casual and sporty. This particular piece is as good as new, with boxes and papers, yet the price is more $4,000 below retail. You simply don't find new Patek Philippe's discounted anywhere; this is a great buy.

Women's Swiss Army Vivante
Swiss Army makes some of the best reasonably priced-watches out there, and this one looks a lot like the Patek Philippe Twenty 4 from above, but the retail price on this watch is about $400. An added bonus is that it's brand new with all the boxes and warranties. And like all Swiss Army watches, it's made in Switzerland.

Rolex Red Submariner

(buy it now price, $19,750)

Lum-Tec B2 Combat Automatic

(buy it now price, $795)

Roley Red Submariner

This is a pristine example of the Rolex Red Submariner.  Everything on it appears original (things to look for include a small opening in the Rolex Coronet and thick numbers on the bezel). Plus, "Submariner" is written in the correct shade of red and this one even comes with all of the original boxes and papers. 

Lum-Tec B2 Combat Automatic
There's been a surge of interest in American-designed watches as of late; leading that charge has been Ohio-based Lum-Tec. The company is are creating extremely good-looking and high-quality watches featuring both Japanese and Swiss movements that are limited edition and very reasonably priced. This B2 is a classic military look and is actually one of just 150 in existence.  It's a steal.