On our Watch List: Dedegumo

By Chadner Navarro
November 4, 2011

Dedegumo

Dedegumo watches: Moonlight and Beyond

In a fashion world currently obsessed with horology, Dedegumo might just be the hottest watch brand around.

Handmade by trained artisans, these unique timepieces reflect the rich watch making legacy of city of Kyoto, Japan, where the company has been headquartered since its founding in 2000. At once timeless and edgy, they are outfitted with custom-made straps, dials and unique buckles that although thoroughly modern-looking, have their roots in the time-honored Japanese tradition. (That they feature Seiko Quartz movements means you never have to worry about functionality.)

And to think Dedegumo may have never have made it to the U.S. if it weren’t for a healthcare professional from Atlanta.   Bob Guest, who has spent decades launching and marketing the likes of Advil, Chapstick and Robitussin, was in Kyoto for a business trip when, during some down time, he came upon Dedegumo’s small shop in Gion Shimbashi. Blown away by their impressive craftsmanship, he decided to bring them to our shores. Dedegumo watches are now available at a nearly-year-old outpost in Manhattan's Lower East Side and at renowned department store Bergdorf Goodman.

Dedegumo

The Dedegumo store in New York City and the workshop where watches are made

Here, he takes the time to talk timepieces with us.

The Inside Source: So you found Dedegumo in while you were milling around the city. How did your partnership with them actually unfold?

Bob Guest: My son [who works with me in the healthcare business and was living Kyoto at the time] and I met with the founder, Izumo Senco, and learned that he has yearned to expand his business to the U.S. market but didn't know how to get started. We decided to help make that dream come true. We knew we would need a tremendous amount of cooperation in order to transfer all the unique brand assets to the U.S. market. We agreed on a simple arrangement by which Izumo-san would provide his designs and training needed to replicate the intricacies of his watch making skills with our yet-to-be recruited artisans in New York City. left: Bob Guest, the CEO of Dedegumo U.S.

The Inside Source: How does your background in healthcare complement what you're doing with Dedegumo? And what made you decide to branch off into something like watch making?

Bob Guest: The decision was not steeped in logic; it was all about gut and instinct. It’s been a wonderful adventure to date that has opened up an entire new landscape. Understanding the consumer and knowing (mostly guessing) what compels consumption has always been intriguing to me. Bringing this "wearable art" to a broader market has been tremendously satisfying.

Dedegumo

left: Ripple; right: Keynote

The Inside Source: What made you decide to bring Dedegumo to New York, specifically?

Bob Guest: New York offers everything we needed to build this brand. We were able to recruit six amazing talented artisans; we connected with a highly creative woodworker to construct our workshop; and we felt the atmosphere of the Lower East Side was a perfect match to our handmade brand. New York embraces newness and is the fashion center of the world. .

The Inside Source: What makes Dedegumo special?

Bob Guest: It’s all about the designs. What sets Dedegumo apart is that we fuse intricate designs with precision and functionality. Dedegumo is a timepiece and fashion all in one. The watches are fun and diverse. Many of our models have the easy flexibility of switching out the leather bands, which really makes one watch seem like many.

Dedegumo

The Inside Source: Tell us more about the design process and the Dedegumo artisans.

Bob Guest: Every Dedegumo, NYC watch is made in our store at 188 Orchard St. We use designs created in Kyoto as a template, but each artisan owns his or her creation throughout the entire process. From the soldering of the buckle to the cutting and finishing of the leather to the intricate design work, it never leaves the artisan’s hands. The artisans also have creative freedom to interpret the designs into their own, making each watch a unique product. Later this year we will debut a new collection, which will center on organic designs for our NYC artisans. This is very exciting for us.

left: placing watch hands

The Inside Source: What’s your favorite Dedegumo watch?

Bob Guest: I have many favorites, but our model called Yozora (or Night Sky) is most often on my wrist. This particular design reflects all that is important about Dedegumo. Each line is etched by hand in a manner that demands absolute precision and the resulting pattern transfixes your brain, allowing you to envision the wonder of the constellations and the universe.

Night Sky (Bob Guest's personal favorite) and Outlook

Rotation Pocket Watch and Fortune

The Inside Source: Do you use eBay?

Bob Guest: When I'm looking for something very specific and different I hunt around on eBay first. It's a source of inspiration to me, seeing the amazing diversity the world has to offer. Maybe I'll find the next Dedegumo on eBay!