Behind the Seams with America's Best Menswear Shops (Part 1)

By Chris Frey
March 30, 2011

Imogene & Willie; Stag

Imogene & Willie, Stag

For most of the last two decades, American men have had three real fashion options: the mass market (read: mall) retailer, the department store or, for those who could afford it, the designer fashion outpost. While women could choose from any number of adorable boutiques, the men's shop had gone the way of the bespoke tailor—over-priced and few and far between.

Until recently. Over the past few years, we've seen a welcome influx of men's fashion shops, complete with inspired interiors (often evoking a hunting lodge or Americana-infused men's club) and well-curated men's fashion selections.

To find out what's in store (literally) for menswear fashion trends this spring, we turned to four of these celebrated stores, each one named one of GQ magazine's Ten Best Independent Men's Stores in America.

Our first of two installments includes a full fashion download from STAG in Austin, TX and Imogene + Willie in Nashville, TN. Read below for each one's five best items for spring, and why American men should pay more attention to Steve McQueen than the European runways.

Stag

images courtesy of Stag

A self-described modern day general store for every man, every single thing within Stag's four walls is for sale, from Stag clothing and accessories to the store displays and furniture. Stag is the brainchild of five guys with varied backgrounds in art and design, who stock their shop with men's fashion, furniture, books, gifts and apothecary that invoke nostalgia, but don't abandon modern aesthetics. We spoke to a co-owner of the Stag store, Steve Shuck to find out more.

The Inside Source: When did Stag open?

Steve Shuck: We opened in December 2009. There are five of us, all of whom contribute a different point of view to the business. The partners are Don Weir, Joel Mozersky, Ted Allen, Bobby Johns, and me (Steve Shuck)

The Inside Source: Who would you describe your customer?

Steve Shuck: We're in a really great area of Austin on South Congress Avenue; a destination for unique shops and great places to eat, drink and hang out. We draw everyone—guys from the neighborhood who come back to us again and again (we have a lot of loyalists who visit us every week), fashion followers who have read about us in a magazine or who follow our blog, spill-over customers from the pizza joint next door and lots of tourists from all over. It's such an exciting and eclectic mix of people. The energy on the weekends is really something special.

The Inside Source: How would you describe your men's fashion merchandising philosophy?

Steve Shuck: The filter we use for everything that comes into the store is that it must reflect our idea of authentic, red-blooded style. This means that we focus on classically masculine goods that (we hope) will really stand the test of time. While trend is important in fashion, we're much more focused on selling goods that people wear and use everyday.

The Inside Source: What are the five men's fashion trends you're carrying that you're most excited about?

Steve Shuck:

1) Lightweight Madras Plaid Shirts by the Burkman Brothers: Their fabrics, patterns, and color choices are always spot-on.

2) The Barton Jean by Imogene + Willie: It's a classic, slim-straight fit and we're the only place outside of Nashville where you can find it.

3) The RRL Officer Chino in Nantucket Red: Our favorite pant is now in our favorite color for spring.

4) The Miansai Fish Hook Cuff: A simple, masculine accessory in solid sterling silver.

5) The Sumfun sneaker by PF Flyers: It's an easy, lightweight summer kick that was first introduced in 1947 and is still perfect after all these years.

The Inside Source: What spring fashion trends do you see happening in men's fashion right now?

Steve Shuck: American workwear and Americana are still really important (and a cornerstone of our assortment), but are now being interpreted through the lenses of the Japanese and European designers as well. The small batch production of these pieces focuses on amazing details, impeccable craftsmanship, and zero frills and embellishments. Tailoring and fit are more important than ever. Slouchy and shapeless are over, and trimmer and slimmer (without being skinny) are the new norm. Military also continues to be a huge influence on style and color.

The Inside Source: What's the perfect "suit" for a Stag guy?

Steve Shuck: While we don't prescribe a single look or uniform, you can never go wrong with a great pair of dark wash jeans, your favorite pair of broken-in boots (be it work, chukka, or cowboy in the case of certain Texans), a classic chambray shirt (updated in a sun-faded red), and a vintage handkerchief that you'll use more than you can ever imagine. And technology is great and all, but we love an old-school pocket notebook as well. Jotting down spur of the moment creative ideas just still doesn't feel quite right on a phone.

The Inside Source: Your three favorite men's designers?

Steve Shuck: That's a tough one, as we really love everything in the shop. That said, we're particularly partial to RRL (for their classic American authenticity and obsessive attention to detail), Burkman Brothers (for their unique point of view, unbelievable fabrics, and ability to mix patterns and cultural references), and Hamilton (because they're from Texas and because they've been making shirts in America since 1883). They make shirts that you will own forever and pass down to your kids).

The Inside Source: For a guy building his wardrobe, which fashion accessories for men are key?

Steve Shuck: Every guy needs the following:

1) A billfold or card case to handle all his business—the slimmer, the better (if it hurts to sit, he's doing it wrong).

2) A quality leather belt that never leaves his favorite pair of jeans, even when they're folded in the closet. We always have a bunch of vintage ones for sale.

3) A classic pair of work boots that fit him like a glove.

4) An assortment of cotton handkerchiefs to use every day for everything.

5) A vintage watch that came from Dad or Granddad (or looks like it could have).

6) An all-everything tie that handles weddings, funerals, and court appearances

The Inside Source: What style icons do you turn to again and again for inspiration?

Steve Shuck: There are too many to mention, but for personal style. It's hard to beat Steve McQueen, Willie Nelson, Keith Richards, Michael Caine, Paul Newman, James Dean, Miles Davis, David Bowie, Johnny Cash, Jackson Pollock and Peter Beard.

The Inside Source: Any other influences we should mention?

Steve Shuck: We draw inspiration from everywhere—music, art, photos, film, literature, found objects, graphic design, interior design and furniture, historical references, etc.

Imogene + Willie

images courtesy of Imogene + Willie

Nashville's Imogene + Willie is run by husband and wife Matt and Carrie Eddmenson, who honed their skills designing fashions for major denim brands, but who credit family for their creative pursuits. (The shop is named after Carrie's maternal grandparents.) Imogene +Willie, which opened in 2009, is housed in a sprawling, whitewashed, 1950's gas station which was lovingly renovated to include the store and the workshop where the house line is produced and hand fit for each customer. Rain or shine, the shop hosts musicians on a regular basis and collaborates with artists to create videos and lookbooks that are breathtakingly beautiful. The Eddmensons were even tapped last year to collaborate with J Crew on a limited edition of denim, totes and women’s tops.

The Inside Source: What is the philosophy behind the brands and objects you carry at Imogene + Willie?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson: Two questions: Will what we create and sell be relevant in years to come? Is this classic?

The Inside Source: What five items have you designed for Spring/Summer that you're most excited about?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson:

1) Wilson chino.

2) Willie jeans in natural selvage.

3) Barton jeans in a new black selvage

4) Leo, a selvage chambray pearl snap western shirt.

5) Earl, a two pocket cotton flannel, slim-fitting shirt.

The Inside Source: What's the perfect suit for an Imogene + Willie guy?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson: A Billy Reid custom suit.

The Inside Source: Who are your three favorite designers?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson:

1) Bart Sights, Carrie's brother

2) Ian Berry at Falcon motorcycle

3) Ralph Lauren

The Inside Source: For a guy building his wardrobe, which men's accessories are key?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson: A classic timepiece, an American made boot, a vintage denim jacket and effortless eyewear

The Inside Source: What style icons do you turn to again and again for inspiration?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson: Paul Newman.

The Inside Source: Any other desinger influences we should mention?

Matt and Carrie Eddmenson: The number of musicians that grace our shop couch every day. Supper+song. Pure indigo that our friend Brian is growing. Short films.