Book Report: American Fashion Menswear

By Marni Elyse Katz
June 18, 2010

Robert Bryan, author American Fashion Menswear; American Fashion Menswear, published by Assouline.

With an extensive career in men’s fashion, it’s no surprise that Robert E. Bryan was tapped by the CFDA (that’s Council of Fashion Designers for folks who don’t so closely follow the industry) to put together a book on the history of male style in America. Bryan, a writer and stylist, started out as a buyer at A&S before he became an editor at M Civilized Men magazine, Fairchild’s male counterpart to W. After stints at other publications, Bryan became the Men’s Fashion Director of The New York Times Magazine men’s style issues until 2006.

American Fashion Menswear (Assouline, 2009) looks at over a decade of men’s fashion and its influence on culture at large, including the dandy, the preppy Ivy League look, the advent of America sportswear and the influence of rock’n’roll. Bryan’s own taste is informed by vintage styles. Most recently, he’s a “Mad Men” kinda guy. We chatted with him about his style inclinations and vintage clothing collections.

Clockwise from top left: Ad for socks by J. C. Leyendecker epitomizes Ivy League style, ca. 1929. (Credit: 2009 National Museum of American Illustration, Newport RI; Brightly colored country-club sportswear seen in the April 1968 issue of Esquire. (credit: Illustration by Ken Dallison, all rights reserved.); A Brooks Brothers dandy, 1952 (Credit: Conde Nast Archive/Corbis); Ivy Leaguers, 1950. (Credit: George Silk/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images); Photographer Oliviero Toscani's take on Western wear for L'Uomo Vogue, 1976; Football player, 1940. (Credit Robert E. Bryan Personal Collection); 3.1 Phillip Lim shorts suit from Spring-Summer 2008 harkens back to looks seen on Ivy League campuses in the 1950s. (credit: firstVIEW)

The Inside Source: When did you develop an interest in vintage?

Robert Bryan: I started wearing vintage menswear—it was just “old clothes” then—in about 1970. I loved the old Hollywood look of the ‘30s and ‘40s, and wore it when i could find it. In the ‘70s and ‘80s I wore nothing but vintage clothing. In the late ‘70s people thought I was wearing Armani because of the big shoulders and pleated pants.

TIS: Only vintage? You must have a lot of stuff.

RB: I must have 150 sweaters, mainly from the ‘40s and ‘50s, and 1,000 ties. I'm getting ready to sell them, now that I have more time.

TIS: What’s your favorite piece?

RB: A double-breasted suit from 1933—in the old days there was a tag in the pocket listing the year in which the suit was made. I bought it 25 years ago at a flea market in Pennsylvania from the granddaughter of the original owner, who was a New York City detective. When I have to pose for a picture or go somewhere important, like a book signing, I wear that suit.

TIS: Do you have a signature look?

RB: I am famous for my vests. I have about 25 tailored vests in tattersalls and tweeds with horn and pearl buttons. I started buying vests in the early ‘80s at the flea markets in Covent Garden in London, on my way back from the fashion shows in Paris and Milan. I also have a hand-knitted sweater vest that was a sample I purchased for $5, and a hand-knitted Englsh Fair Isle sweater vest that I’ve worn more than any other. English Country works so well with a grey flannel suit or sport coat.

TIS: Is there a look of which you’re not very fond?

RB: I’m not very big on hats. They look great on other people, but they mess up my hair.

TIS: What’s your stance on ties?

RB: I tend to do the vintage version of whatever is happening at the moment. In the ‘80s, I had wild ‘40s ties. Armani was showing wild ties with ‘40s-looking suits. Then the styles became more classic, so I wore classic patterns like club ties, medallions, foulards, and paisleys. In 2000, skinny lapels and tie became popular, and that’s around now too, epitomized by “Mad Men.” I have been looking very “Mad Men” for the past ten years in regards to suits and ties. I have an entire “Mad Men” wardrobe, really.

TIS: If you had to wear new clothing what would you choose?

RB: If I had to wear a current designer it would be Ralph Lauren. I love his whole aesthetic, needless to say. I also love J.Crew; they do the best job and it just gets better and better. They have all kinds of traditional genuine American style items, and great sales too.

Here's what Robert Bryan gravitated to on eBay:

Roll over items for details

Vintage Bespoke Evening Tailcoat

"Talk about tailoring! This Edwardian tailcoat, with it's impeccable make, high (silk jacquard covered) button stance and roped shoulders would look great worn as a light weight top coat for those who dare to stand out."

(winning bid, $51.78)

Vintage 30s/40s Authentic Michigan State Spartans Sweater

"Ralph Lauren with his chain of vintage preppy flavored Rugby stores has based his business on imitations of this authentic 1940's Michigan State Spartans Sweater. These "letter sweaters" have a great fit and very flattering college look. So why not get the real thing at a better price?"

(bid now, $99.99)

Vintage Photo of Affectionate Men in Bathing Suits

"The love that dare not speak it's name was shouting in this 1920's photograph of two 'affectionate' guys in classic 'tank' suits. Since the release of a similarly named book a few years ago featuring just such vintage pictures, the market for these photographs has gone through the roof."

(winning bid, $33.95)

Fab Men's 30's Three Piece Suit Dated 1938

“ In the 1930's even Sears made beautifully tailored, finely detailed clothing (look at that self belt and those rear flaps on the trousers!). Bring some of Fred Astaire's style into the 21st. century with this dapper three-piece suit from 1938.”

(winning bid, $68.80)

Vintage 1970s Embroidered Men’s Pants Shirt Jacket Suit

"Got a touch of Saturday Night Fever and longing for those days of Donna Summer? Then this is the specially embroidered matching jacket and bell bottomed pants outfit for you. Great for a costume party, or for someone with a very unique sense of style."

(buy it now price, $52.95)

Men's Vintage A Maine Guide Outerwear Wool Jacket

"Over the past couple of years the world of men's fashion has gone mad for plaid. Thanks to the "Lumberjack look" and a new found appreciation of all things authentically American, items like this rugged "Maine Guide" wool jacket look better than ever."

(buy it now price, $50)

NEW Mens Black Leather Motorcycle Biker Jacket

”There is no other item of men's apparel that packs the masculine wallop of a black leather motor cycle jacket. Just look at Marlon Brando in 'The Wild One.' Wear it with a white T-shirt and jeans to turn a whole town upside down.”

(from $0.99)

4 Vintage ORIGINAL *HANDSOME YOUNG MEN IN SUITS* Photograph

"Feel like you were born in the wrong era? Look at smart style of these guys from the 1930's and 40's, from the from the sporty coat to the dapper white suit and well fitted double-breasted, these regular guys from another era now look like style icons."

(bid now, $.25)

Vintage Hanes Union Suit Underwear

"Vintage underwear was often so great, it seemed a terrible shame to keep it covered up. Now that anything goes, with female pop stars wearing slips, girdles and bustiers on stage, it's time for the men to flaunt their undergarments, like this 1920's style Hanes Union Suit. It’s just perfect for warm weather wear, in bed, around the house, or if you dare, on the street."

(winning bid, $28.95)

Vintage Men’s Jantzen Bathing Suit Trunks With Sail Boats

"Board shorts are too long and baggy (besides they are over anyway) the Speedo is just too skimpy. So how about back in style authentic square cut boxer shorts from the 1950's. And nobody can top that great sailboat print today!"

(winning bid, $13.01)

Men’s Vintage Genson Wingtip Tan Brogues

“Fashion minded young people have a new appreciation of classic footwear, like these pebble grained, wing tip, lace-ups. Whether worn traditionally with dress hosiery and a suit, or without socks and rolled jeans, you'll be right in style.”

(buy it now price, £39.99)