Shopping with. . . Fashion Consultant Bonnie Morrison

By The Inside Source
April 9, 2010

Bonnie Morrison Photo by Stephen Lovekin/Getty Images, Photo by Amy Sussman/Getty Images

Even among the professionally well-heeled, fashion consultant Bonnie Morrison stands out in a crowd. And while Morrison, who worked in fashion public relations and at magazines like Mademoiselle and Men’s Vogue before moving into brand strategy, has the creations of designers both established and up-and-coming at her fingertips, “most days I’m wearing something from eBay,” she says. “Whenever people ask, ‘Oh that’s so amazing, where did you get it?’ invariably it’s something I’ve found on eBay.”

Morrison's enviable wardrobe includes vintage designer party frocks, elegant costume jewelry, and important pieces from more recent, heralded collections, all unearthed by bidding or clicking the Buy It Now button—repeatedly. When worn by Morrison, whether she’s sitting front row during Fashion Week or is backstage orchestrating a show, the resulting mix is a look that manages to be both unexpected and of the moment.

Morrison shared some of her shopping tips with the Inside Source, including how to find and spot authentic couture. (Hint: If you're looking for authentic couture, start trolling for sellers in the Sunshine State.)

The Inside Source: You’ve worked on so many sides of the fashion business. What is your favorite role?

Bonnie Morrison: It’s working with designers, observing their process and using all of that to build a strategy for a season or a cohesive brand strategy. I’m not a creative person, but to have a role in that is very exciting. Thinking about what this designer represents and how that is transmitted to the public and evolves over time—that is the most thrilling part.

TIS: Describe a typical day during Fashion Week, and an outfit that might take you through from start to finish?

BM: This past season I worked on four projects—two presentations and two shows: TSE and Chris Benz [presentations], ADAM and Zac Posen [shows]. It was extremely hectic. Normally, I do wear a lot of print and color and am a little more fanciful in my dressing. But since my schedule was super back to back, and since it was the middle of winter and I was shooting from thing to thing and designer to designer, there was usually a black dress, a flat and a coat over it. And a bag full of things I add on, depending on where I am and the time of day. My bag becomes a mobile wardrobe. Underneath, it’s something chic but not generic, so I don’t feel like I’m in a uniform. I own all of the basics in black or gray or navy blue.

TIS: You wear a lot of vintage, and yet you always look very current. How do you keep updating your closet?

BM: When I was younger, I wore vintage in a very literal way. But now, particularly the '80s stuff, which I collect a lot of, tends to feel dated, and that’s part of the fun of it—to style it in a way that becomes personal—a personal heirloom, if that’s not too pretentious word to use about clothes. I will look for things that I missed the first time around—that classic piece from an important designer, like the Prada roses collection. There’s a lot of vintage that’s not wear-it-now, but the significance reveals itself to you as trends change or as your personal style changes.

With the really fantastic things, I make sure to go to the tailor. It is important to have things fit properly because you don’t want to feel like you’re wearing not just your mother’s clothes, but your grandmother’s clothes.

TIS: Speaking of, who’s your tailor?

BM: New Tower Cleaners on Greenwich Avenue [in Manhattan]. It’s this man and his wife, who’s a seamstress. She’ll hem or pull the clothes apart and put them back together—things always need adjustment to your body. Good tailoring can transform something you like, or is a cool idea or expression of a trend, into something you can really wear. They are always amazed at the haul I bring in. My tailoring bills are super expensive, which balances out the cost of getting something super cheap!

TIS: What are some of the more memorable items you’ve unearthed on eBay?

BM: I have an Arnold Scaasi party dress that I love and got for $39. It’s flocked tulle in black and yellow, off the shoulder and must have cost a fortune it its day. I have tons of great costume jewelry. I got this silk Celine dress from the '70s or '80s, [with a] smock waist, in a very sweet, naïve daisy print. I just looked for Celine and looked for vintage. It was $24.99. I have some really amazing accessories. I just bought a straw Bottega Veneta bag from the '80s—a clutch—that was $40. Those are things that I really excavated. I also got a Balenciaga belted jacket from the fall 2004 show. It had retailed for $2,000. I’ve only seen one on eBay after going on the site every day for years and years, and it still had the tags on it.

So there are things that are very recognizable—from my recent fashion memory—and there are also forgotten designers I’ve discovered, from one search leading to another search. I do a lot of my shopping on eBay. Even if I want something brand new, I always check on eBay first—for new Hermes, Prada. You can develop a good enough eye to recognize something really great when you see it. And I love the hunt. And that it’s all in the privacy of your own home.

TIS: How do you typically navigate the site when you’re looking for something specific?

BM: I don’t have one particular method. Some sellers are really, really specific; some are generalists, so descriptions do vary. A lot of my searches are really trend-driven. When I have the time, I’ll go through everything that comes up for an idea, like festooned necklaces.

One of the great things about the site is that it will provide recommendations—people who searched for this also searched for this. If you search for costume jewelry, [the site will] make recommendations for specific brands. Boucher, Panetta, Mazer Brothers, Trifari, some of the big ones from the '40s and '50s. . . It’s all really collectible and beautiful, and you’ll find that as you’re searching, eBay will suggest. . . well so-and-so looks like Panetta. And maybe you like it; maybe you don’t.

To me, eBay really becomes like an encyclopedia in that way. There are sites that talk about vintage clothes, but they’re very dry and they don’t always show examples. But on eBay, you can look and see, well, who does figural broaches? Who does drop earrings? You can start anywhere and learn—and learn very quickly. And then your searches become more specific, depending on what knowledge you come in with. Sometimes it’s fun to make the search as wide as possible, and then sift down from there. I love discovering something that you have the impression no one else has found.

When I look for couture, it is all made to measure, so there are no size labels. I just search for the French designers who have done couture. And all the great ballgowns come from Florida for some reason. They are either shipped from Florida or have a label from a store in Florida, but they’ve spent some time there.

TIS: What are you looking for right now on eBay?

BM: I am always looking for vintage Hermes. Right now, I’m looking for coral jewelry. Rose cut diamond jewelry. Indian stuff. I am looking for a statement necklace or festooned necklaces. A Czech glass necklace. Georgian jewelry. For summer, I’m really into a straw bag. Charvet shirts, in small sizes, to complete my menswear look this season. I’m looking for a Dunhill robe. I’m really into menswear and men’s pajamas and men’s haberdashery. I love Givenchy. I love Patrick Kelly, David Cameron, designers from the '80s New York era. Fabrice. Not all of it I necessarily wear, but I’m interested in the history of it. Many of those companies didn’t last for very long, and a lot of the shows aren’t on YouTube, so it’s a good way to revisit the collections. These were people I admired when I was a kid growing up, looking at fashion from afar. I didn’t have the opportunity to see it up close then. Now to see it or to even own some of it—it’s everything coming full circle.

TIS: When you find something, how can you tell if the garment is in good condition and will fit?

BM: I’ve gotten burned very few times, considering the number of purchases I’ve made. It helps to know what you’re looking for. And there is trial and error. When I first was on, I wasn’t as much of a connoisseur. I would buy everything. Now I’m a little more discerning. I also made fewer big ticket purchases then—not because I was worried about the authenticity, but because it was a lot of money to spend. Now I have a lot in my collection, so it really has to be something I must have in order for me to bid.

It helps to really read about the condition of an item. It’s rare that I’ve gotten something where they didn’t say what was wrong with it. People will also supply additional pictures, if asked. Usually, you’re dealing with someone who’s cleaning out their late aunt’s attic. They don’t know, really, what this stuff is. They’re just trying to unload the items. But if you read the fine print, they’ll usually tell you if something is truly wrong with the garment.

You start with small bids and see how comfortable you are with the process. It’s not like you’re sending someone an envelope stuffed with cash. It’s organized in this way to make it very comfortable. You send someone the money. And three days later it’s on your doorstep. Amazing!

TIS: How well do you know your delivery men?

BM: You know, really, really well. Especially the U.S. mail people. They don’t ask me for ID anymore. I go to the post office—I don’t have a doorman so I have to go to the post office—and I walk in, and they say, “Hey, Bonnie.” They’re always asking, “What’s in those boxes?” They must think I’m an international drug dealer. Or that I live in a 16,000 square foot apartment. If I ever moved to another zip code, I would have to go say goodbye to all of them. It would be somewhat emotional.

Bonnie Morrison's eBay Shopping List

1. Authentic Chanel Haute Couture Coat Dress (starting bid, $799) "The Chanel Black Manteau from [seller] Linda's Stuff [has been on my watch list for ages]: Chanel at its most classic, understated, and beautifully made. That eBay gives me access to a handmade couture garment is astonishing to me."

2. Boys Van Heusen Navy Grey Blazer (buy it now price, $23.99) "I always look for larger boy's sizes. They are usually the perfect slim fit, with a chic little bracelet sleeve. The proportion is great."

3. Rare Designer Genuine Monkey Fur Jacket (buy it now price, $1,999.99) "I think this is one of the holy grails of vintage items."

4. Vintage Black Arnold Scaasi Dress (buy it now price, $219) "While I tend to wear the Scaasi I own for very specific occasions, the construction and the sense of exuberance is, in a nutshell, why I collect vintage clothing. And of course this comes from Florida, where all the best evening gowns tend to be."

5. Georgian Cut Steel Earrings (winning bid, $2,474.40) "Georgian jewelry is so elegant, and these are a lovely example. For the best selection, I comb the international eBay sites, since the best stuff is in England."

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